Thursday 27 January 2011

On getting settled in Palestine

The week in Palestine began auspiciously.  From London Luton to Tel Aviv, Ali Suliman the Palestinian actor who plays a reluctant suicide bomber in the film Paradise Now was on the flight.  After picking up my luggage I went to immigration and clean shaven and with the love of the lord in my eyes and heart, said I was a religious tourist who was staying with friends, but hadn't decided on departure dates yet.  The gruff Israeli asked if I was planning on going to the Palestinian side, I said I didn't know but would probably see Bethlehem at some point.  Granted the three month visa of the cunningly dishonest, but before proceeding to customs and the exit a young woman disguised in the helpful and welcoming outfit of an airline stewardess interrogated me further about my visit, in case I had forgotten my cover story during the 30 second walk, and would suddenly admit to being a Palestinian sympathizer, some sort of criminal de-kosher-er, or an impoverished asylum seeker.
          You may have heard on the news that civil unrest has been rocking and rolling from Tunis to Cairo and Yemen.  Throughout the Middle East there's been looting, burning, rioting, tear gas and attempted suppression by police forces, people acting out in anger against their entrenched and corrupt, greedy leaders.  It's all really exciting, but it ain't happening here.
         In Beit Sahour, west of Bethlehem, its been windy, dry and cool.  The sun has shined through the day, a cool wind has blown and people have gone about their lives within an occupation, albeit now with one more expat volunteer in their midst.
           Rachel the managing director of the Paida drove us from the airport in Tel Aviv, past Jerusalem, around Bethlehem and through a checkpoint near an Israeli settlement.  Lit up against the night, the settlement looked imposing and readily defendable, like some sort of crusader castle with double glazed windows, occupying the top and most of a hillside.
             The having gone through the checkpoint several times now, I can say that it still creates a small amount of anxiety, mostly because I speak no Hebrew, and feel that I'd get in trouble for that.
            Two days ago I  spotted Banky's Peace Dove wearing a flak jacket, going into Bethlehem after going through the West Bank barrier wall.  The wall in two words, is a fucking monstrosity, and I can only hope that the gravel it will eventually be ground down into is used to line the septic tanks from future generations.
More soon, time for dinner...

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